Groceries around the studio, the best-reviewed tables nearby, and the city's essential monuments, viewpoints, streets and traditional tascas.
The big supermarkets of the historic centre are a short walk away — and there are small minimercados in the streets around Campo de Santa Clara for basics.
Full supermarket by Santa Apolónia station — an 8-minute walk downhill, with everything from fresh bread to household basics.
Traditional covered market — fresh fish, butcher, fruit and vegetables, about 12 minutes uphill towards Graça.
Lisbon's legendary flea market, literally next door to the studio — Tuesdays and Saturdays, best early in the morning.
The highest-rated tables within a few minutes' walk of the studio — ratings from travellers on Google and TripAdvisor.
Contemporary Portuguese in a tiny dining room — one of the neighbourhood's highest-rated tables; book ahead.
Cosy bistro with a bold, short menu — the pasta gets rave reviews.
All-day dining near Campo de Santa Clara — great brunch, healthy plates and vegan options.
Seafood tasco — the Greek-style cod and the generous portions are the ones to order.
Small wine-led kitchen — the octopus is the dish to order.
Tapas and Portuguese wines — the octopus salad and the blue tuna stand out.
Sardines and codfish done with love — a homemade feel.
Portuguese wine bar — sardines, prawns in curry butter and rare bottles.
Refined Portuguese tasting menus in an intimate room.
Codfish (bacalhau) in every form — a modern take on the tradition.
Petiscos near the field — chorizo on fire and the gazpacho.
Mushrooms take centre stage — a few steps from the studio.
Tinned-fish (conservas) petiscos done with flair — and you can buy the cans.
Old-school tascas that survive — many with fado. They're small and they fill up: book ahead or arrive early.
The temple of fado vadio — improvised fado most nights, chouriço assado and cheap wine.
The second house, in the heart of Alfama — same fado, much closer to the studio.
Tiny tasca in the Mouraria — book ahead or queue with the locals.
Petiscos and vinho verde on Martim Moniz's square — very local.
Fado vadio inside a family dining room — reserve well ahead.
The bifana institution on Camões square — a counter, a beer, a pork sandwich.
Old-school bifanas since the 1970s, on the walk down to Baixa.
A tasca frozen in time near Rossio — presunto, queijo and the stews of the day.
Generous petiscos — chocos fritos and iscas — in the birthplace of fado.
From the church next door to the icons of Belém — the essentials, starting with what you can see from your window.
Santa Engrácia church, 5 minutes away — the tombs of Amália and the fado heroes, and a terrace with river views.
Right behind the Feira da Ladra — a monastery with tiled cloisters and views from the towers.
Open in Google MapsThe cathedral, Lisbon's oldest church — don't miss the cloister and its archaeological diggings.
Open in Google MapsThe Moorish castle above Alfama — the classic view over the red rooftops all the way to the river.
Open in Google MapsThe grand yellow square opening onto the Tagus — the gateway to Baixa.
Open in Google MapsClimb to the top of the triumphal arch for a rooftop-level view over the square and the river.
Open in Google MapsThe neo-Gothic iron lift connecting Baixa and Chiado — best photographed from the Carmo terrace.
Open in Google MapsThe roofless Gothic church left by the 1755 earthquake — now a beautiful open-air museum.
Open in Google MapsThe Manueline masterpiece of Belém, resting place of Vasco da Gama — UNESCO World Heritage.
The fortified tower on the Tagus — the postcard of the Age of Discovery.
The Discoveries Monument, shaped like a caravel's prow — great view from the top.
The tile museum tracing 500 years of azulejos, in a former convent — a short ride towards Xabregas.
Open in Google MapsLisbon is a city of seven hills — these are the terraces to enjoy them from.
THE postcard of Alfama's rooftops — 5 minutes from the studio, with a café terrace.
Azulejo panels and vine-covered arches, right next to Portas do Sol.
Open in Google MapsA terrace café under the pines, with the castle right in front of you.
Open in Google MapsThe highest viewpoint in the city — the classic spot for sunset.
Open in Google MapsA garden terrace looking across Baixa at the castle — with a map in tiles.
Open in Google MapsThe sunset hangout by the Adamastor statue, looking at the 25 de Abril bridge.
Open in Google MapsThe streets that make the city — from the lanes under the studio to the postcard funiculars.
Get lost in the lanes below the studio — laundry on the windows, fado in the corners, tiny squares.
Open in Google MapsBaixa's grand pedestrian avenue, running from the triumphal arch to the river.
Open in Google MapsElegant Chiado: bookshops, historic cafés (A Brasileira!) and the way up to Carmo.
Open in Google MapsThe square where Bairro Alto begins — everyone meets 'no Camões', under the poet.
Open in Google MapsThe postcard funicular street — ride it down, or photograph it from the top.
Open in Google MapsPink Street, the old red-light street of Cais do Sodré — now the heart of clubland.
Open in Google MapsMystic by day, wild by night — the 16th-century quarter of tiny bars.
Open in Google MapsRide the vintage tram — it passes by Portas do Sol on its way from Graça to Estrela.
Open in Google MapsA creative hub of studios, bookshops and rooftops under the bridge — tram 15 from Cais do Sodré.
Open in Google MapsThe hilltop town of palaces and mysteries — 40 minutes by train from Rossio station. Our route, and the best-reviewed monuments.
About 40 minutes from Rossio station — leave early, the palaces are best before the crowds.
Bus 434 up the hill — book the timed ticket online, well in advance.
Right next door — walk the medieval walls with views all the way to the Atlantic.
Down in the historic centre — and don't leave without trying the queijadas de Sintra.
The afternoon belongs to the gardens, tunnels and the famous Initiation Well.
The National Palace in the village, or Monserrate in its exotic gardens — then the train back.
The fairytale palace on the hilltop — a Seven Wonder of Portugal and Sintra's icon.
Gothic palace and mysterious gardens — the Initiation Well is one of the most photographed places in Portugal. #1 of Sintra on TripAdvisor.
9th-century Moorish walls winding along the ridge — Atlantic views from the towers.
An exotic hidden gem — palace and botanical gardens, far from the crowds.
The village's white palace with the iconic twin chimneys — a thousand years of royalty.
The royal seaside town — 40 minutes on the coastal train from Cais do Sodré. A relaxed route along the coast.
The coastal train runs along the Tagus for about 40 minutes — sit on the left for the water.
Wander the lanes down to the tiny queen's beach and the bay.
The striped lighthouse and the Condes de Castro Guimarães palace-museum, right by the sea.
A 25-minute seaside walk to the dramatic cliff chasm where the Atlantic crashes in.
The institution since 1949 — queue like everyone else.
Bus 403 or an Uber: the westernmost point of continental Europe, 140 m above the sea.
Wild dunes and Atlantic surf, between Cascais and the cape — one of the highest-rated beaches in the country.
The tiny sheltered beach hidden in the old town — a favourite of Queen Amélia.
The striped lighthouse with a small museum, by one of the prettiest bays on the coast.
Open in Google MapsA palace-museum full of treasures — bookshop, tiles and a tower, right on the seafront.
The 'Mouth of Hell' — the cliff chasm where the waves explode.
Wild dunes and Atlantic surf — kites and boards all year round.
Where Europe ends — cliffs facing the open Atlantic, unforgettable at sunset.
Ice creams since 1949 — arguably the best in Portugal.