Pastel de nata
Lisbon's custard tart — flaky pastry, warm custard, a caramelised top. Eat it still warm, with cinnamon.
Groceries around the studio, the best-reviewed tables nearby, and the city's essential monuments, viewpoints, streets and traditional tascas.
The big supermarkets of the historic centre are a short walk away — and there are small minimercados in the streets around Campo de Santa Clara for basics.
Full supermarket by Santa Apolónia station — an 8-minute walk downhill, with everything from fresh bread to household basics.
Traditional covered market — fresh fish, butcher, fruit and vegetables, about 12 minutes uphill towards Graça.
Lisbon's legendary flea market, literally next door to the studio — Tuesdays and Saturdays, best early in the morning.
You're in one of Lisbon's oldest eating quarters — Alfama, Graça and Santa Clara. These are the flavours to look for around the studio.
Lisbon's custard tart — flaky pastry, warm custard, a caramelised top. Eat it still warm, with cinnamon.
Charcoal-grilled sardines on bread — the taste of Santo António in June, when the streets of Alfama fill with smoke and music.
Shredded salt cod with crispy potatoes, scrambled eggs, parsley and olives. Portugal's favourite fish, the Lisbon way.
Portuguese small plates: clams in garlic and coriander, octopus, cheese, olives — order a few and a jug of vinho verde.
Thin pork in garlic and white wine, tucked into a soft roll. Eat it standing at the counter, like a local.
Sour-cherry liqueur born in Lisbon. A small glass — or an edible chocolate cup — between wanderings in Alfama.
From the focaccia next door to eggs Benedict in Alfama — these are the brunch plates worth the walk, and where to find them.
The Lisbon breakfast: a tall galão coffee, a warm pastel de nata and buttered toast. Simple, cheap and best at a pastelaria counter.
Thick, golden focaccia straight from the oven — the easiest brunch from the studio. Campo de Santa Clara, right by Feira da Ladra.
Poached eggs, hollandaise, avocado or salmon — the brunch everyone queues for on a slow morning in Alfama.
Fluffy blueberry pancakes with maple and berries — a lazy Graça morning, a short uphill walk from the studio.
A cold açaí bowl with granola and fruit — Augusto Lisboa, next to Campo de Santa Clara, is the neighbourhood's healthy brunch address.
Toasted bagel, cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers — a solid savoury brunch down in Alfama.
The highest-rated tables within a few minutes' walk of the studio — ratings from travellers on Google and TripAdvisor.
Contemporary Portuguese in a tiny dining room — one of the neighbourhood's highest-rated tables; book ahead.
Cosy bistro with a bold, short menu — the pasta gets rave reviews.
All-day dining near Campo de Santa Clara — great brunch, healthy plates and vegan options.
Seafood tasco — the Greek-style cod and the generous portions are the ones to order.
Small wine-led kitchen — the octopus is the dish to order.
Tapas and Portuguese wines — the octopus salad and the blue tuna stand out.
Sardines and codfish done with love — a homemade feel.
Portuguese wine bar — sardines, prawns in curry butter and rare bottles.
Refined Portuguese tasting menus in an intimate room.
Codfish (bacalhau) in every form — a modern take on the tradition.
Petiscos near the field — chorizo on fire and the gazpacho.
Mushrooms take centre stage — a few steps from the studio.
Tinned-fish (conservas) petiscos done with flair — and you can buy the cans.
A lively Alfama tavern with contemporary Portuguese plates meant for sharing. Book ahead — 5 minutes down Calçada do Forte.
Azorean cooking a few steps from the studio — unfussy seafood and island flavours, ideal after a morning at the market.
A local bakery often named for one of the best pastéis de nata in Lisbon — worth the stroll through Alfama.
Old-school tascas that survive — many with fado. They're small and they fill up: book ahead or arrive early.
The temple of fado vadio — improvised fado most nights, chouriço assado and cheap wine.
The second house, in the heart of Alfama — same fado, much closer to the studio.
Tiny tasca in the Mouraria — book ahead or queue with the locals.
Petiscos and vinho verde on Martim Moniz's square — very local.
Fado vadio inside a family dining room — reserve well ahead.
The bifana institution on Camões square — a counter, a beer, a pork sandwich.
Old-school bifanas since the 1970s, on the walk down to Baixa.
A tasca frozen in time near Rossio — presunto, queijo and the stews of the day.
Generous petiscos — chocos fritos and iscas — in the birthplace of fado.
From the church next door to the icons of Belém — the essentials, starting with what you can see from your window.
Santa Engrácia church, 5 minutes away — the tombs of Amália and the fado heroes, and a terrace with river views.
Right behind the Feira da Ladra — a monastery with tiled cloisters and views from the towers.
Open in Google MapsThe cathedral, Lisbon's oldest church — don't miss the cloister and its archaeological diggings.
Open in Google MapsThe Moorish castle above Alfama — the classic view over the red rooftops all the way to the river.
Open in Google MapsThe grand yellow square opening onto the Tagus — the gateway to Baixa.
Open in Google MapsClimb to the top of the triumphal arch for a rooftop-level view over the square and the river.
Open in Google MapsThe neo-Gothic iron lift connecting Baixa and Chiado — best photographed from the Carmo terrace.
Open in Google MapsThe roofless Gothic church left by the 1755 earthquake — now a beautiful open-air museum.
Open in Google MapsThe Manueline masterpiece of Belém, resting place of Vasco da Gama — UNESCO World Heritage.
The fortified tower on the Tagus — the postcard of the Age of Discovery.
The Discoveries Monument, shaped like a caravel's prow — great view from the top.
The tile museum tracing 500 years of azulejos, in a former convent — a short ride towards Xabregas.
Open in Google MapsLisbon's Age of Discovery quarter, down by the river — monasteries, towers and the original pastel de nata. An easy half-day from the studio.
From Praça do Comércio take tram 15E (~30 min), or the train from Cais do Sodré to Belém station (~7 min). Get off and everything is walkable.
The Manueline monastery is the centrepiece — book a timed ticket online. Vasco da Gama is buried in the church.
Walk to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and along the Tagus. Climb the monument for the view, then continue west to the tower.
The fortified tower on the water — Lisbon's most famous postcard. Go early if you want to go inside.
The original custard tarts, since 1837, in the old sugar refinery next to the monastery. The queue moves; eat them warm with cinnamon.
The Manueline masterpiece of Belém, resting place of Vasco da Gama — UNESCO World Heritage. Book ahead.
The fortified tower on the Tagus — the postcard of the Age of Discovery.
Shaped like a caravel's prow, honouring the navigators. The rooftop looks over the river and the monastery.
The contemporary art, architecture and technology museum — a striking white building on the water, with a walkable roof.
The official residence of the President of Portugal — pink façades and the Museu da Presidência in the gardens.
The world's finest collection of royal coaches, in a modern building opposite the old riding school.
The original pastel de nata, baked here since 1837 from a secret Jerónimos recipe. Worth the queue — eat them warm.
The CCB — exhibitions, concerts and a terrace café facing Jerónimos. A good pause between monuments.
Lisbon is hilly — skip Alfama's alleys. The river path is almost flat: down to Santa Apolónia, then west to Belém or east to Parque das Nações. Rent nearby. For the Atlantic beach, take the boat from Belém to Trafaria and ride to Costa da Caparica.
The closest shop — Rua Bica do Sapato 50B, by Santa Apolónia (~8 min downhill). City, gravel and e-bikes. Closed Sunday.
Lisbon's public bikes (normal and electric). Download the GIRA app. Stations along the river, including Santa Apolónia — good for short hops.
Excellent rental on the river in Cais do Sodré — pick up here if you're riding the flat path to Belém.
About 3.5 km · 20 minutes. Do not climb through Alfama — go down to the river, then it's almost flat.
From the studio, roll downhill to Santa Apolónia station and the river. This is the only slope — and it's down.
Follow the river west past Campo das Cebolas and the Casa dos Bicos. Dedicated cycle space along the water.
The big yellow square on the Tagus. Pause here — the rest is a gentle rise through Baixa.
Up Rua Augusta (soft slope, tram 15E shares the street — go slow) to Rossio. Cafés, trains to Sintra, and the heart of downtown.
About 8 km one way · almost entirely flat on the riverside cycle path (Eixo Marginal). Take the train back from Belém if you don't want to ride upwind.
Start at the station by the river, 8 minutes downhill from the studio. Join the cycle path heading west.
José Saramago Foundation in the spiked Casa dos Bicos — a quick look, then keep along the water.
The gateway of Baixa. Cross the square on the river side and stay on the bike lane west.
Time Out Market if you want a bite. Bike Iberia is here if you still need a rental. Then the path opens up along the docks.
Quiet stretch of waterfront, cafés on the right. Keep the river on your left.
Pass under the 25 de Abril Bridge. LX Factory is a short detour inland if you want coffee and shops.
The white art & architecture museum on the water — walk the roof if you park the bike for a minute.
The Discoveries Monument. Climb it for the view, then the monastery is just behind you.
The monastery (book tickets) and the original nata bakery next door. Lock the bike and eat them warm.
Five more minutes west on the path. End at the tower, then train from Belém station back to Cais do Sodré or Santa Apolónia.
About 6 km one way · almost flat, heading east from Santa Apolónia (the other direction from Belém). You ride under the Vasco da Gama Bridge — you cannot cycle on the bridge itself.
From the studio, roll downhill to the station. Join the cycle path heading east, river on your right.
Stay on the riverside cycle lane towards Braço de Prata. Keep the Tagus beside you.
Old warehouses and a quieter stretch. The path continues toward the Expo park.
The 1998 Expo park — gardens, cafés, a cable car above. Wide promenade, easy riding.
Lisbon's great aquarium (Oceanário de Lisboa). Lock the bike and go in — book tickets. This is the aquarium by the Vasco da Gama Bridge.
Keep north along the water to Parque Tejo and ride under the pylons of the longest bridge in the EU — 17 km across the estuary. You cannot cycle on the bridge (it is a motorway).
Calatrava's station. Metro, trains, and an easy way home if you don't want to ride back.
A half-day. Ride the flat path to Belém (~8 km), take the ferry with the bike, then a dedicated lane to the Atlantic. Check the last boat back before you go.
Same flat ride west as the Belém route, as far as the Estação Fluvial de Belém — the ferry terminal on the water, just before the tower.
Transtejo ferry Belém → Porto Brandão → Trafaria. Bikes go on. About 20–25 minutes. Boats are not frequent (every 1–2 hours) — check the timetable on the day.
A small fishing village on the south bank. Cafés and seafood if you want a pause before the beach.
From the terminal, follow the cycle path (~5–6 km) via Cova do Vapor to Costa da Caparica. Almost flat, good for any pace.
Twenty kilometres of Atlantic sand — the closest proper beach to Lisbon. Swim, eat grilled fish, or keep south toward Fonte da Telha.
Leave time for the ride back to Trafaria and the last ferry to Belém. Miss it and you are on the south bank for the night.
Lisbon is a city of seven hills — these are the terraces to enjoy them from.
THE postcard of Alfama's rooftops — 5 minutes from the studio, with a café terrace.
Azulejo panels and vine-covered arches, right next to Portas do Sol.
Open in Google MapsA terrace café under the pines, with the castle right in front of you.
Open in Google MapsThe highest viewpoint in the city — the classic spot for sunset.
Open in Google MapsA garden terrace looking across Baixa at the castle — with a map in tiles.
Open in Google MapsThe sunset hangout by the Adamastor statue, looking at the 25 de Abril bridge.
Open in Google MapsThe streets that make the city — from the lanes under the studio to the postcard funiculars.
Get lost in the lanes below the studio — laundry on the windows, fado in the corners, tiny squares.
Open in Google MapsBaixa's grand pedestrian avenue, running from the triumphal arch to the river.
Open in Google MapsElegant Chiado: bookshops, historic cafés (A Brasileira!) and the way up to Carmo.
Open in Google MapsThe square where Bairro Alto begins — everyone meets 'no Camões', under the poet.
Open in Google MapsThe postcard funicular street — ride it down, or photograph it from the top.
Open in Google MapsPink Street, the old red-light street of Cais do Sodré — now the heart of clubland.
Open in Google MapsMystic by day, wild by night — the 16th-century quarter of tiny bars.
Open in Google MapsRide the vintage tram — it passes by Portas do Sol on its way from Graça to Estrela.
Open in Google MapsA creative hub of studios, bookshops and rooftops under the bridge — tram 15 from Cais do Sodré.
Open in Google MapsThe hilltop town of palaces and mysteries — 40 minutes by train from Rossio station. Our route, and the best-reviewed monuments.
About 40 minutes from Rossio station — leave early, the palaces are best before the crowds.
Bus 434 up the hill — book the timed ticket online, well in advance.
Right next door — walk the medieval walls with views all the way to the Atlantic.
Down in the historic centre — and don't leave without trying the queijadas de Sintra.
The afternoon belongs to the gardens, tunnels and the famous Initiation Well.
The National Palace in the village, or Monserrate in its exotic gardens — then the train back.
The fairytale palace on the hilltop — a Seven Wonder of Portugal and Sintra's icon.
Gothic palace and mysterious gardens — the Initiation Well is one of the most photographed places in Portugal. #1 of Sintra on TripAdvisor.
9th-century Moorish walls winding along the ridge — Atlantic views from the towers.
An exotic hidden gem — palace and botanical gardens, far from the crowds.
The village's white palace with the iconic twin chimneys — a thousand years of royalty.
The royal seaside town — 40 minutes on the coastal train from Cais do Sodré. A relaxed route along the coast.
The coastal train runs along the Tagus for about 40 minutes — sit on the left for the water.
Wander the lanes down to the tiny queen's beach and the bay.
The striped lighthouse and the Condes de Castro Guimarães palace-museum, right by the sea.
A 25-minute seaside walk to the dramatic cliff chasm where the Atlantic crashes in.
The institution since 1949 — queue like everyone else.
Bus 403 or an Uber: the westernmost point of continental Europe, 140 m above the sea.
Wild dunes and Atlantic surf, between Cascais and the cape — one of the highest-rated beaches in the country.
The tiny sheltered beach hidden in the old town — a favourite of Queen Amélia.
The striped lighthouse with a small museum, by one of the prettiest bays on the coast.
Open in Google MapsA palace-museum full of treasures — bookshop, tiles and a tower, right on the seafront.
The 'Mouth of Hell' — the cliff chasm where the waves explode.
Wild dunes and Atlantic surf — kites and boards all year round.
Where Europe ends — cliffs facing the open Atlantic, unforgettable at sunset.
Ice creams since 1949 — arguably the best in Portugal.