Lisbon · Historic Centre

Your guide
to Lisbon

Groceries around the studio, the best-reviewed tables nearby, and the city's essential monuments, viewpoints, streets and traditional tascas.

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Around the studio

Groceries & the market next door

The big supermarkets of the historic centre are a short walk away — and there are small minimercados in the streets around Campo de Santa Clara for basics.

Pingo Doce — Santa Apolónia

Full supermarket by Santa Apolónia station — an 8-minute walk downhill, with everything from fresh bread to household basics.

Supermercado · 7:30–22:00

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Mercado de Sapadores

Traditional covered market — fresh fish, butcher, fruit and vegetables, about 12 minutes uphill towards Graça.

Mercado tradicional

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Feira da Ladra

Lisbon's legendary flea market, literally next door to the studio — Tuesdays and Saturdays, best early in the morning.

Terças e sábados · 9:00–18:00

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Eat & drink

Gastronomy of the neighbourhood

You're in one of Lisbon's oldest eating quarters — Alfama, Graça and Santa Clara. These are the flavours to look for around the studio.

Sweet

Pastel de nata

Lisbon's custard tart — flaky pastry, warm custard, a caramelised top. Eat it still warm, with cinnamon.

Try it at Pastelaria Santo António Pastelaria Alfama Doce

June favourite

Sardinhas assadas

Charcoal-grilled sardines on bread — the taste of Santo António in June, when the streets of Alfama fill with smoke and music.

Try it at Menina Sardinha Açores na Feira

Classic

Bacalhau à Brás

Shredded salt cod with crispy potatoes, scrambled eggs, parsley and olives. Portugal's favourite fish, the Lisbon way.

Try it at O Beco — A Tradição do Bacalhau O Tasco do Vigário

To share

Petiscos

Portuguese small plates: clams in garlic and coriander, octopus, cheese, olives — order a few and a jug of vinho verde.

Try it at Taberna Sal Grosso Miss Can — Petiscaria

On the go

Bifana

Thin pork in garlic and white wine, tucked into a soft roll. Eat it standing at the counter, like a local.

Try it at As Bifanas do Afonso O Trevo

A Lisbon ritual

Ginjinha

Sour-cherry liqueur born in Lisbon. A small glass — or an edible chocolate cup — between wanderings in Alfama.

Try it at A Ginjinha Ginjinha Sem Rival

Slow mornings

Brunch near the studio

From the focaccia next door to eggs Benedict in Alfama — these are the brunch plates worth the walk, and where to find them.

Local classic

Galão, nata & torrada

The Lisbon breakfast: a tall galão coffee, a warm pastel de nata and buttered toast. Simple, cheap and best at a pastelaria counter.

Try it at Pastelaria Santo António Pastelaria Alfama Doce

Next door

Focaccia

Thick, golden focaccia straight from the oven — the easiest brunch from the studio. Campo de Santa Clara, right by Feira da Ladra.

Try it at Focaccia in Giro

Weekend favourite

Eggs Benedict

Poached eggs, hollandaise, avocado or salmon — the brunch everyone queues for on a slow morning in Alfama.

Try it at Breakfast Lovers Alfama Augusto Lisboa

Sweet

Pancakes

Fluffy blueberry pancakes with maple and berries — a lazy Graça morning, a short uphill walk from the studio.

Try it at Brunch & Bites Graça Breakfast Lovers Alfama

Fresh & light

Açaí bowl

A cold açaí bowl with granola and fruit — Augusto Lisboa, next to Campo de Santa Clara, is the neighbourhood's healthy brunch address.

Try it at Augusto Lisboa

Savoury

Salmon bagel

Toasted bagel, cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers — a solid savoury brunch down in Alfama.

Try it at Brunch And Bites Alfama

Nearby

The best-reviewed restaurants around the house

The highest-rated tables within a few minutes' walk of the studio — ratings from travellers on Google and TripAdvisor.

Agulha no Palheiro

Contemporary Portuguese in a tiny dining room — one of the neighbourhood's highest-rated tables; book ahead.

4.8 ★ · 800+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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Bistrô Gato Pardo

Cosy bistro with a bold, short menu — the pasta gets rave reviews.

4.7 ★ · 1.200+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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Augusto Lisboa

All-day dining near Campo de Santa Clara — great brunch, healthy plates and vegan options.

4.8 ★ · 2.100+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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O Tasco do Vigário

Seafood tasco — the Greek-style cod and the generous portions are the ones to order.

4.6 ★ · 600+ avaliações · €

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Beco a Sério

Small wine-led kitchen — the octopus is the dish to order.

4.6 ★ · 450+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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O Vinhaça Tapas & Vinhos

Tapas and Portuguese wines — the octopus salad and the blue tuna stand out.

4.8 ★ · 550+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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Menina Sardinha

Sardines and codfish done with love — a homemade feel.

4.8 ★ · €€–€€€

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Orquídea

Portuguese wine bar — sardines, prawns in curry butter and rare bottles.

4.9 ★ · €€–€€€

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Stō Restaurante

Refined Portuguese tasting menus in an intimate room.

4.9 ★ · 1.000+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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O Beco — A Tradição do Bacalhau

Codfish (bacalhau) in every form — a modern take on the tradition.

4.4 ★ · 800+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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Petisqueira Conqvistador

Petiscos near the field — chorizo on fire and the gazpacho.

4.5 ★ · 600+ avaliações · €

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Santa Clara dos Cogumelos

Mushrooms take centre stage — a few steps from the studio.

4.7 ★ · 690+ avaliações · €€–€€€

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Miss Can — Petiscaria

Tinned-fish (conservas) petiscos done with flair — and you can buy the cans.

4.6 ★ · €€–€€€

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Taberna Sal Grosso

A lively Alfama tavern with contemporary Portuguese plates meant for sharing. Book ahead — 5 minutes down Calçada do Forte.

5 min · Calçada do Forte 22 · €€–€€€

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Açores na Feira

Azorean cooking a few steps from the studio — unfussy seafood and island flavours, ideal after a morning at the market.

2 min · Feira da Ladra · €€

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Pastelaria Santo António

A local bakery often named for one of the best pastéis de nata in Lisbon — worth the stroll through Alfama.

10 min · Alfama · €

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Eat like a local

Traditional tascas

Old-school tascas that survive — many with fado. They're small and they fill up: book ahead or arrive early.

Tasca do Chico — Bairro Alto

The temple of fado vadio — improvised fado most nights, chouriço assado and cheap wine.

Rua Diário de Notícias 39 · até às 2:00 · €

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Tasca do Chico — Alfama

The second house, in the heart of Alfama — same fado, much closer to the studio.

€

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Zé dos Cornos

Tiny tasca in the Mouraria — book ahead or queue with the locals.

Beco dos Surradores 5 · reservar · €–€€

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O Velho Eurico

Petiscos and vinho verde on Martim Moniz's square — very local.

Largo São Cristóvão 4 · €–€€

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A Baiuca

Fado vadio inside a family dining room — reserve well ahead.

Alfama · reservar · €€

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O Trevo

The bifana institution on Camões square — a counter, a beer, a pork sandwich.

Praça Luís de Camões 48 · €

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As Bifanas do Afonso

Old-school bifanas since the 1970s, on the walk down to Baixa.

Rua da Madalena 146 · €

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A Provinciana

A tasca frozen in time near Rossio — presunto, queijo and the stews of the day.

Travessa do Forno 23 · Rossio · €

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O Zé da Mouraria

Generous petiscos — chocos fritos and iscas — in the birthplace of fado.

Rua João do Outeiro 24 · €–€€

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Lisbon

Monuments not to miss

From the church next door to the icons of Belém — the essentials, starting with what you can see from your window.

Panteão Nacional

Santa Engrácia church, 5 minutes away — the tombs of Amália and the fado heroes, and a terrace with river views.

5 min a pé

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Igreja de São Vicente de Fora

Right behind the Feira da Ladra — a monastery with tiled cloisters and views from the towers.

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Sé de Lisboa

The cathedral, Lisbon's oldest church — don't miss the cloister and its archaeological diggings.

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Castelo de São Jorge

The Moorish castle above Alfama — the classic view over the red rooftops all the way to the river.

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Praça do Comércio

The grand yellow square opening onto the Tagus — the gateway to Baixa.

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Arco da Rua Augusta

Climb to the top of the triumphal arch for a rooftop-level view over the square and the river.

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Elevador de Santa Justa

The neo-Gothic iron lift connecting Baixa and Chiado — best photographed from the Carmo terrace.

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Convento do Carmo

The roofless Gothic church left by the 1755 earthquake — now a beautiful open-air museum.

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Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

The Manueline masterpiece of Belém, resting place of Vasco da Gama — UNESCO World Heritage.

Belém · tram 15

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Torre de Belém

The fortified tower on the Tagus — the postcard of the Age of Discovery.

Belém

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Padrão dos Descobrimentos

The Discoveries Monument, shaped like a caravel's prow — great view from the top.

Belém

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Museu Nacional do Azulejo

The tile museum tracing 500 years of azulejos, in a former convent — a short ride towards Xabregas.

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Half a day

Belém and its monuments

Lisbon's Age of Discovery quarter, down by the river — monasteries, towers and the original pastel de nata. An easy half-day from the studio.

Tram 15 or the train

From Praça do Comércio take tram 15E (~30 min), or the train from Cais do Sodré to Belém station (~7 min). Get off and everything is walkable.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos first

The Manueline monastery is the centrepiece — book a timed ticket online. Vasco da Gama is buried in the church.

The riverfront

Walk to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos and along the Tagus. Climb the monument for the view, then continue west to the tower.

Torre de Belém

The fortified tower on the water — Lisbon's most famous postcard. Go early if you want to go inside.

Pastéis de Belém

The original custard tarts, since 1837, in the old sugar refinery next to the monastery. The queue moves; eat them warm with cinnamon.

The monuments of Belém

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

The Manueline masterpiece of Belém, resting place of Vasco da Gama — UNESCO World Heritage. Book ahead.

UNESCO · tram 15 / train

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Torre de Belém

The fortified tower on the Tagus — the postcard of the Age of Discovery.

UNESCO · 15 min walk from Jerónimos

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Padrão dos Descobrimentos

Shaped like a caravel's prow, honouring the navigators. The rooftop looks over the river and the monastery.

Riverfront

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MAAT

The contemporary art, architecture and technology museum — a striking white building on the water, with a walkable roof.

Waterfront · next to the power station

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Palácio Nacional de Belém

The official residence of the President of Portugal — pink façades and the Museu da Presidência in the gardens.

Gardens free

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Museu Nacional dos Coches

The world's finest collection of royal coaches, in a modern building opposite the old riding school.

Near the palace

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Pastéis de Belém

The original pastel de nata, baked here since 1837 from a secret Jerónimos recipe. Worth the queue — eat them warm.

Rua de Belém 84

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Centro Cultural de Belém

The CCB — exhibitions, concerts and a terrace café facing Jerónimos. A good pause between monuments.

Next to Jerónimos

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On two wheels

Lisbon on a bike

Lisbon is hilly — skip Alfama's alleys. The river path is almost flat: down to Santa Apolónia, then west to Belém or east to Parque das Nações. Rent nearby. For the Atlantic beach, take the boat from Belém to Trafaria and ride to Costa da Caparica.

Where to rent, near Feira da Ladra

Mountainbike Portugal

The closest shop — Rua Bica do Sapato 50B, by Santa Apolónia (~8 min downhill). City, gravel and e-bikes. Closed Sunday.

8 min downhill · Mon–Sat

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GIRA — city bikes

Lisbon's public bikes (normal and electric). Download the GIRA app. Stations along the river, including Santa Apolónia — good for short hops.

App · stations on the river

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Bike Iberia

Excellent rental on the river in Cais do Sodré — pick up here if you're riding the flat path to Belém.

Cais do Sodré · highly rated

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Flat route to Rossio

About 3.5 km · 20 minutes. Do not climb through Alfama — go down to the river, then it's almost flat.

Down to Santa Apolónia

From the studio, roll downhill to Santa Apolónia station and the river. This is the only slope — and it's down.

Campo das Cebolas

Follow the river west past Campo das Cebolas and the Casa dos Bicos. Dedicated cycle space along the water.

Praça do Comércio

The big yellow square on the Tagus. Pause here — the rest is a gentle rise through Baixa.

Rua Augusta → Rossio

Up Rua Augusta (soft slope, tram 15E shares the street — go slow) to Rossio. Cafés, trains to Sintra, and the heart of downtown.

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Flat route to Belém — all the stops

About 8 km one way · almost entirely flat on the riverside cycle path (Eixo Marginal). Take the train back from Belém if you don't want to ride upwind.

Santa Apolónia

Start at the station by the river, 8 minutes downhill from the studio. Join the cycle path heading west.

Campo das Cebolas & Casa dos Bicos

José Saramago Foundation in the spiked Casa dos Bicos — a quick look, then keep along the water.

Praça do Comércio

The gateway of Baixa. Cross the square on the river side and stay on the bike lane west.

Cais do Sodré

Time Out Market if you want a bite. Bike Iberia is here if you still need a rental. Then the path opens up along the docks.

Santos

Quiet stretch of waterfront, cafés on the right. Keep the river on your left.

Doca de Alcântara

Pass under the 25 de Abril Bridge. LX Factory is a short detour inland if you want coffee and shops.

MAAT

The white art & architecture museum on the water — walk the roof if you park the bike for a minute.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos

The Discoveries Monument. Climb it for the view, then the monastery is just behind you.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos & Pastéis de Belém

The monastery (book tickets) and the original nata bakery next door. Lock the bike and eat them warm.

Torre de Belém

Five more minutes west on the path. End at the tower, then train from Belém station back to Cais do Sodré or Santa Apolónia.

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Flat route to Parque das Nações — Oceanário & Vasco da Gama

About 6 km one way · almost flat, heading east from Santa Apolónia (the other direction from Belém). You ride under the Vasco da Gama Bridge — you cannot cycle on the bridge itself.

Santa Apolónia — east this time

From the studio, roll downhill to the station. Join the cycle path heading east, river on your right.

Along Infante Dom Henrique

Stay on the riverside cycle lane towards Braço de Prata. Keep the Tagus beside you.

Braço de Prata

Old warehouses and a quieter stretch. The path continues toward the Expo park.

Parque das Nações waterfront

The 1998 Expo park — gardens, cafés, a cable car above. Wide promenade, easy riding.

Oceanário — the aquarium

Lisbon's great aquarium (Oceanário de Lisboa). Lock the bike and go in — book tickets. This is the aquarium by the Vasco da Gama Bridge.

Under the Vasco da Gama Bridge

Keep north along the water to Parque Tejo and ride under the pylons of the longest bridge in the EU — 17 km across the estuary. You cannot cycle on the bridge (it is a motorway).

Gare do Oriente

Calatrava's station. Metro, trains, and an easy way home if you don't want to ride back.

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Longer trip — boat to Trafaria & Costa da Caparica

A half-day. Ride the flat path to Belém (~8 km), take the ferry with the bike, then a dedicated lane to the Atlantic. Check the last boat back before you go.

River path to the Belém ferry

Same flat ride west as the Belém route, as far as the Estação Fluvial de Belém — the ferry terminal on the water, just before the tower.

Boat to Trafaria

Transtejo ferry Belém → Porto Brandão → Trafaria. Bikes go on. About 20–25 minutes. Boats are not frequent (every 1–2 hours) — check the timetable on the day.

Trafaria

A small fishing village on the south bank. Cafés and seafood if you want a pause before the beach.

Bike lane to the beach

From the terminal, follow the cycle path (~5–6 km) via Cova do Vapor to Costa da Caparica. Almost flat, good for any pace.

Costa da Caparica

Twenty kilometres of Atlantic sand — the closest proper beach to Lisbon. Swim, eat grilled fish, or keep south toward Fonte da Telha.

Last boat back

Leave time for the ride back to Trafaria and the last ferry to Belém. Miss it and you are on the south bank for the night.

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The views

Viewpoints of the seven hills

Lisbon is a city of seven hills — these are the terraces to enjoy them from.

Miradouro das Portas do Sol

THE postcard of Alfama's rooftops — 5 minutes from the studio, with a café terrace.

5 min a pé

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Miradouro de Santa Luzia

Azulejo panels and vine-covered arches, right next to Portas do Sol.

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Miradouro da Graça

A terrace café under the pines, with the castle right in front of you.

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Miradouro da Senhora do Monte

The highest viewpoint in the city — the classic spot for sunset.

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Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara

A garden terrace looking across Baixa at the castle — with a map in tiles.

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Miradouro de Santa Catarina

The sunset hangout by the Adamastor statue, looking at the 25 de Abril bridge.

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Streets & rides

Streets, squares & the tram

The streets that make the city — from the lanes under the studio to the postcard funiculars.

Alfama — as ruelas

Get lost in the lanes below the studio — laundry on the windows, fado in the corners, tiny squares.

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Rua Augusta

Baixa's grand pedestrian avenue, running from the triumphal arch to the river.

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Rua das Flores

Flower street — street art, natural-wine bars and brunch spots.

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Chiado — Largo do Chiado

Elegant Chiado: bookshops, historic cafés (A Brasileira!) and the way up to Carmo.

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Praça Luís de Camões

The square where Bairro Alto begins — everyone meets 'no Camões', under the poet.

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Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo

The postcard funicular street — ride it down, or photograph it from the top.

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Rua Nova do Carvalho

Pink Street, the old red-light street of Cais do Sodré — now the heart of clubland.

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Bairro Alto

Mystic by day, wild by night — the 16th-century quarter of tiny bars.

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Elétrico 28

Ride the vintage tram — it passes by Portas do Sol on its way from Graça to Estrela.

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LX Factory

A creative hub of studios, bookshops and rooftops under the bridge — tram 15 from Cais do Sodré.

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Day trips

Sintra in a day

The hilltop town of palaces and mysteries — 40 minutes by train from Rossio station. Our route, and the best-reviewed monuments.

Train from Rossio

About 40 minutes from Rossio station — leave early, the palaces are best before the crowds.

Palácio da Pena first

Bus 434 up the hill — book the timed ticket online, well in advance.

Castelo dos Mouros

Right next door — walk the medieval walls with views all the way to the Atlantic.

Lunch in the old town

Down in the historic centre — and don't leave without trying the queijadas de Sintra.

Quinta da Regaleira

The afternoon belongs to the gardens, tunnels and the famous Initiation Well.

Still have time?

The National Palace in the village, or Monserrate in its exotic gardens — then the train back.

The best-reviewed monuments

Palácio da Pena

The fairytale palace on the hilltop — a Seven Wonder of Portugal and Sintra's icon.

4.6 ★ · bilhete com hora online

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Quinta da Regaleira

Gothic palace and mysterious gardens — the Initiation Well is one of the most photographed places in Portugal. #1 of Sintra on TripAdvisor.

4.8 ★ · 14.000+ avaliações

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Castelo dos Mouros

9th-century Moorish walls winding along the ridge — Atlantic views from the towers.

4.5 ★ · 6.800+ avaliações

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Palácio de Monserrate

An exotic hidden gem — palace and botanical gardens, far from the crowds.

4.7 ★

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Palácio Nacional de Sintra

The village's white palace with the iconic twin chimneys — a thousand years of royalty.

En el centro de la villa

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Day trips

Cascais in a day

The royal seaside town — 40 minutes on the coastal train from Cais do Sodré. A relaxed route along the coast.

Train from Cais do Sodré

The coastal train runs along the Tagus for about 40 minutes — sit on the left for the water.

Old town & Praia da Rainha

Wander the lanes down to the tiny queen's beach and the bay.

Santa Marta & the museum

The striped lighthouse and the Condes de Castro Guimarães palace-museum, right by the sea.

Boca do Inferno

A 25-minute seaside walk to the dramatic cliff chasm where the Atlantic crashes in.

Santini ice cream

The institution since 1949 — queue like everyone else.

Cabo da Roca at sunset

Bus 403 or an Uber: the westernmost point of continental Europe, 140 m above the sea.

Optional: Praia do Guincho

Wild dunes and Atlantic surf, between Cascais and the cape — one of the highest-rated beaches in the country.

The best-reviewed stops

Praia da Rainha

The tiny sheltered beach hidden in the old town — a favourite of Queen Amélia.

4.6 ★

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Farol de Santa Marta

The striped lighthouse with a small museum, by one of the prettiest bays on the coast.

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Museu Condes de Castro Guimarães

A palace-museum full of treasures — bookshop, tiles and a tower, right on the seafront.

4.7 ★

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Boca do Inferno

The 'Mouth of Hell' — the cliff chasm where the waves explode.

4.6 ★ · 20.000+ avaliações

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Praia do Guincho

Wild dunes and Atlantic surf — kites and boards all year round.

4.8 ★ · 58.000+ avaliações

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Cabo da Roca

Where Europe ends — cliffs facing the open Atlantic, unforgettable at sunset.

4.7 ★

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Santini Cascais

Ice creams since 1949 — arguably the best in Portugal.

4.5 ★ · desde 1949

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